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January 15, 2008
The Night Before
Bill and I are spending the night in Paris before he drops me at the train station and I take off for my 4th Camino, from St Jean Pied de Port on the Spanish border, to the Atlantic coast of Spain, 1000 kilometers to the west, passing through St Jacques de Compostella.
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Here are photos Bill took at the Montparnasse station very early Wednesday morning.
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January 16, 17, 18, 2008
St Jean Pied de Port, Valcarlos, and Roncesvalles
Met 2 nice men on the little train to St Jean Pied de Port, one is French and 61 the other Italian and 51. We have already become a family. Madame Jeannine liked her photos from last year and was as generous as ever making us dinner and breakfast. What a women!
These guys are not very trail wise so I have become "mom" showing the ropes and how to find places on the trail. Last night we stayed in the little albergue in Valcarlos situated between the public lavatories. All was fine but no hot plate so I made tomato soup for us all with my heating coil.
Tonight we are in the Roncesvalles monastery dormitory rigged out for winter. All is fine. We will attend mass and the pilgrim blessing at 8pm and then eat a pilgrim dinner at 8:30. I feel fine but am tired tonight. However I should feel tired after that climb of 4 hours today. I will write more from Pamplona as there are too many people who want to use the computer now.
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January 19, 2008
Zubiri
After Roncesvalles we, ie me and the French guy called Polo, and the Italian, named Mario began our descent. It was very tiring with lots of slippery mud. These guys had too much stuff in their packs which made everything very tiring and difficult. One kilo of pack weight per 10 kilos of body weight is a good rule of thumb. Hard to do though.
Along the way we met a couple who live in Canada and are from Venezuela. She thought I spoke very good English which, being American, I found very funny. The albergue in Larrasoana was closed so Paulo and I, plus a new young Spanish couple, stopped in a cheap and agreeable Casa Rural in Zubiri. Only 14 euros apiece including a most useful washing machine.
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January 20, 21, 2008
Trinidad de Arre and Cizur Menor
Yesterday, Sunday, we split apart and Polo and I continued slowly to the most pleasant monastery at Trinidad de Arre where I had stayed on my first Camino in 2004. We were the only pilgrims.
Today it was an easy walk on the sidewalks of Pamplona to here, the private albergue in Cizor Menor. Not too much heat however and a cold shower. Glorious sunshine. At last I feel back on track and my body feels balanced. Frankly the French guy would never be able to manage without me. As I write he is sending a huge pile of unneeded stuff back home.
Tomorrow I plan to cut across the back country to the wonderful circular chapel at Eunate. If my guts hold out I hope to sleep there. However one never knows what may occur. It should be a walk of about 25 k but across relatively flat farmland. I will try to write from Puente la Reina in a few days.
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January 22, 23, 2008
Eunate and Puente La Reine
I am now in Puente La Reine, weather is sunny but cold.
Since I wrote last I spent a long day walking downhill across the back roads and not across the Mountain of Pardon to the exquisite circular church at Eunate.
We visited the church by candlelight and held an almost silent prayer service. All was truly beyond this world.
Polo and I spent an unforgettable night in the little albergue with Jean, the French hospitalero. The copious food he served us was wonderful.Slept on mattresses on the floor.
Now in Puente there are a few more male pilgrims. Have had one ghastly bout of tourista but took some pills and now feel better. There is nothing worse that diarrhea on the trail first thing in the cold morning air.
By the way, Polo, my walking companion might be described as a contemporary Jean Valjean from
Les Miserables. He has done it all including sleeping in his car for 6 months. However, he could not be here without a shepherd. So I am busily teaching him the ropes, and history.
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January 24, 25, 26, 2008
Estella, Los Arcos and Torres del Rio
Am in Torres del Rio where the circular church is based on the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. Easy short walk today across orange earth and vineyards under cloud cover. Yesterday was a beautiful 22k from Estella to Los Arcos. Giant cliffs and eventually mountains on the north under a cobalt sky and a golden light. Very beautiful.
Unfortunately the albergue that I expected to stay in was closed and the only place open was a true dump. Got very depressed but was better after a hot shower and a good meal in a truck stop.
Tonight two sweaty adult Spanish men have joined Polo and me. The Spanish speak French and are charming. We all are washing clothes together in the machine. The only problem with this place is that the toilets are on the outside patio. Needless to say I hope that I do not get the trots.
I feel better and better each day. Hopefully all will stay that way for the next 7 weeks. Everyone find my name Marguerite a riot. Since they remember the famous cow of that name wearing a floppy straw hat, with cutouts for its ears, dragged along by Fernandel in old French movies. I must get a straw hat. Not sure about the cutouts though.
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January 27, 2008
Logrono
We are in Logrono after a 20km walk mostly down under a hazy blue sky and golden sun. Actually took off my jacket for a while. Now I am very tired. Saw Pussy-willows so spring appears to be around the corner here. However, there may be snow at Granon in a few days. The sweaty Spanish are still with us and a young Lithuanian guy has joined the team.
The putside of the Logrono church has a large sculpture of Santiago Matamoros, or St James killing the Moors at the Battle of Clavio near here. I know, not very politically correct but it was a long time ago.
I have just discovered a wonderful Spanish chocolate bar for cooking that gives me great energy when I need it.
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January 28,29,30,31, 2008
Najera, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Granon, and Belorado
I am now in Belorado and will bring you up to date on the last three days. In Logrono I stayed at the nice municipal albergue which had wonderful dark blue polaire (fleece) blankets. We three, Polo, a Lithuanian guy named Edmund, and I ate dinner together in a local place and were joined in the albergue by the sweaty Spanish men from the night before and a German girl who got in without a albergue pass but said that she would buy one the next day. So much for winter standards. However she was cute so the house father took pity on her.
On Monday Polo and I walked across the red earth and vineyards of Rioja to Ventosa where I stayed last year in a great private albergue. Passing by Navarette I passed the ruins of the medieval pilgims hostel and on the far side of the hilltop town the doorway from the hostel is now the entrance to the cemetery. Nearby is a recent memorial to a Belgian pilgrim killed on the road.
Unfortunately the Ventosa albergue was closed so we continued on to Najera. At the municipal albergue which holds 100 we three were the only pilgrims. Polo cooked a good hot dinner for us. On Tuesday the early morning light was golden, the sky pale blue and in the southern distance snow covered the peaks. We slowly climbed across the countryside to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Upon arrival at the parish albergue there was a sign on the door to telephone a number in order to stay. Since my spoken Spanish is nil I went to the ticket office on the other side of the church to ask if they could call the number.
Raised eyebrows and cold icy stares were my reward. Finally the woman did call and we could stay. Talk about being on the right or left hand of God. Wednesday morning the albergue was truly freezing, I got up very early to visit the church and hear the famous chickens crow.
Then it was a short walk to the wonderful albergue in the church at Granon. As always the welcome was most gracious. Besides Polo and myself, there were a two Swiss guys and a young Canadian couple as pilgrims. The house father was a young Spanish guy, polyglot in several languages. His girlfriend was Latvian. Quite a mix. They cooked us a wonderful supper. What a treat it was to sit by the blazing fire and be warm.
As always the ambiance was perfect and we all realized it. Now the Canadians, Polo and I are in a private albergue in Belorado with a bunch of noisy and clannish Brazilians. We are all waiting for a common dinner.
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February 1,2, 2008
Villafranca Montes de Oca and Ages
After Belorado Polo, the Canadians and I walked along the quiet and flat Camino towards Villafranca Montes de Oca. The Canadians continued and we stayed in the old schoolhouse renovated as an albergue. It was cold in the night but with many blankets. However the heat stopped at 10 pm.
Next day Polo and I set out in a light snow which became heavier as the hills were climbed. This is the same area where in 2006 I met the Guardia Civile in the heavy snow. Yesterday the snow was enchanting, right out of the back wall of the
Narnia wardrobe. I kept looking for my faun.
After passing the newly restored but now locked monestery of San Juan Ortega we eventually came to Ages. There we stayed in an enchanting place called the house of the snail. Made of colombage, or in English, half timbering, it was run by a Spanish woman named Peace. She made us a soup supper as well as breakfast this morning. The actual owner is a Norwegian woman who is presently an NGO in Sudan and will be in Zimbabwe within the next 2 months for a year.
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February 3,4, 2008
Burgos
After a long walk down to Burgos and across the drenched city we are the only two pilgrims tonight with the housefather in the municipal albergue which is set in a park in the far western edge of the city. This place is made of 3 connected and heated new log cabins. With the rain pouring down it seems very cozy. And now for a shower and to sleep.
We are spending a day of rest here in Burgos. Revisited the cathedral this morning and took many photos. Can hardly wait to hear how Super Tuesday works out. Tonight in the same chalet albergue where we are staying for free there are new pilgrims. A guy from Antwerp and a couple from Korea who only speak Korean and stare constantly.
The highlight of my day was meeting a charming French speaking hospitalero who arrived at the albergue this morning and re-discovered us in the cathedral later. She took us to visit a wonderful restored 15th century house now used as a bank. When it was a house it hosted Christopher Columbus no less. What a world. This will be my last shower for a few days, not to say last food store and, of course, last Internet. Next comes the high dry hills known as the Mesquita.
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February 5,6, 2008
Hornillos de Camino and Castrojerez
We are now in the municipal albergue in Castrojerez. Quite comfortable and good showers. Another pilgrim, Spanish, is here. He has walked to Jerusalem and worked for several years as a hospitalero in Santiago. Interesting guy with all kinds of Camino tales. Some good some terrifying.
The walk this morning was 20 k in a low fog across beige hills with nothing in sight. The via of vida is the proper expression, the way of emptiness. Yesterday was another story. We left Burgos early and walked up the hills to finally arrive at Hornillos de Camino. This is a miniscule town in the middle of the Camino. No shops. Albergue closed.
Had to wait 2 hours outdoors for the hospitalero to arrive and open the door. He was a doctor on vacation and called to am emergency case a few hills away. The place is undergoing renovation and the heating which was only installed 4 days ago is great. Last year it was freezing.
I am looking forward to a good dinner tonight in a nearby tavern with a Brazilian connection where I have often eaten over the years. They have a big picture of the author Paulo Coelo standing with the owner next to the door. The owner, always the diplomat, said he remembered me from last year.
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February 7,8, 2008
Itero de Vega and Poblacion de Campos
I am really in the deep country at Poblacion de Campos after crossing a high plateau for 2 days.
Polo and I are the only ones in a small albergue. I am writing this in the only bar in the village. No other pilgrims in sight.
The sky was a clear blue this morning and although there were spots of ice on the ground you could see the pale green of what I believe to be winter wheat starting to grow. By lunch we were at Fromista where I took photos of the handsome church and we ate in a tiny pension. A bargain pilgrim lunch of pasta followed by salmon and homemade flan for desert. The total bill for each meal was 10 euros. Not bad.
Yesterday we climbed up to a high plateau from Castrojeriz and continued across empty fields to Itero de Vega. There we stayed in a pilgrim room within a simple hotel, It was only 6 euros and not bad at all. The food ,however, was nothing to rave over.
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February 9, 2008
Carrion de Los Condes
We are in a very Catholic convent. All the other pilgrims are men. Walked only 12 km today under a very hot sun. Actually removed my jacket.
On the way Polo and I stopped at the Templers church at Villalcazar de Sirga. We also ate a wonderful lunch at an unforgettable restaurant called El Meson des Templiers. It has truly existed for centuries. Filled with antiques it appeared to be only a la carte and quite expensive. However, we sat four steps lower that the majority of the diners, ie. truly below the salt, and ate a copious and delicious pilgrim menu for 11 euros.
After that it was another 6 km to here. Last night was spent in a tiny and very cold albergue in Poblacion de Campos. We partially remodeled the place to keep warm putting up mattresses as temporary doors to block out the code and keep in the heat from one very small heater. By the way, the inner soles have really made a huge difference in the comfort of my hiking boots. Every night I take them out to air and dry.
While walking I have come to the following guide lines for the Camino. You must consider the topography, the weather, your health, your pack, strength in difficulty as well as endurance. Will try to write more tomorrow.
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February 10, 2008
Calzadilla de la Cueza.
After a day of walking along an old Roman route we have arrived in Calzadilla de la Cueza. The hospitalero is a nice Italian guy who speaks English and will make us dinner since the on restaurant in town is closed until the season.
A new pilgrim has joined the troop. Named Tom he is from Cologne and speaks English. He only began 4 days ago in Burgos and has huge blisters. Like most first timers he thought that the daily distances cited in the guidebooks were sacred and tried to do 40 km his first day. Now he can hardly move.
I must be one of the very few pilgrims who starts slow and very easy for the first week.
ps...Apparently someone has posted a reference to this blog, appropriately called "Winter Pilgrim" on another site. When we checked the SiteMeter at the bottom of my blog it appears that nearly half the viewers were referred from the site called "
All about the Pilgrimage to Santiago". It is run by the British Confraternity of St James. In the several weeks my blog has been running it is already getting half as many hits as our own B&B web site gets after 8 years! That shows how much interest there is about the Pilgrimage.
Please do leave comments when you pass by here. The exchange of views is in the spirit of the Camino, and I appreciate it.
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February 11,12,13, 2008
Sahagun, El Burgo Raneros, and Mansilla de las Mulas
Now we are four after having picked up a Brasilian guy a few days ago. Tonight we are all in Mansilla de las Mulas. I think that I last wrote before Sahagun. Well, we eventually arrived there after walking in just shirts and sweating like mad under a hot sun in a deep blue sky.
Pollo and I ate in a nice little restaurant that I know in San Nicolas on the way. Great food, old interesting junk on the walls and, for some unknown reason, photos of Indochina 50 years ago.
At the albergue in Sahagun the hospitalero was Russian, wore an parka with fur collar and gloves indoors. Not very reassuring for the warmth of the dorm. However it was fine. It was 6 men and me. Including a new young German guy and a Brasilian, all of whom are still with us.
Next day we all continued to El Burgo Ranero. The normal albergue was closed but I found a private one for us all to stay in. If it were up to the guys we would still be standing on the street. None of them seem to be able to ask a question or interact with the Spanish. I just barge right in.
By midnight the private albergue was almost full with a group of young Aussies whose feet stank unfortunately. Also the so-called door to the loo and showers was wooden beads which made a tremendous noise when anyone passed in the night.
Tonight we four are all together with a nice Japanese guy. When I checked in here the hospitalero remembered me from last year. It is now cold and will get colder for the mountains come after Leon which is our next stop.
Nevertheless I am toasty in my sleeping bag and wonderful, almost never removed athletic T shirt.
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February 14,15, 2008
Leon
From Mansulla de las Mulas we walked about 20 km yesterday to Leon. It was cold and I felt dreadful. Stayed in the warm and very comforting convent near the cathedral. Did nil but take a hot shower and wash my clothes in a proper washer-dryer and take a long siesta. All the other pilgrims were men except for a very grouchy German woman. She must have been from old East Germany for she never smiled. Luckily we seem to have lost her.
Today I felt fine. After quickly revisiting he cathedral this morning Polo and I walked about 21 km to Villadangos del Paramo. The albergue was locked but I went to the local restaurant and got someone to get the key for me. We are alone here without heat but with a free internet. It is fine but freezing. Each of us made a private tent to sleep using using all the blankets available. Later dinner will be in the local restaurant. Since it is cold I am debating about the shower. Tomorrow it is on through Hospital d'Orbigo and eventually the real mountains.
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February 16,17, 2008
Astorga and Santa Catalina de Samozo
Next it was onto Astorga which is a wonderful small city high on a hill with a Roman heritage, great cathedral and archbishop's palace by Gaudi. It was a 26 km slog to get there crossing higher and higher hills. We were walking with some Swiss guys with very bad blisters.
Somehow Polo and I lost each other in dense woods. Since we usually walk Indian fashion and not together, thank goodness, I assumed that he was way ahead of me. He got lost and ended up hitching to the Astorga albergue. I arrived exhausted on foot. The charming hospitalero remembered me from last year when I was the second pilgrim and the first woman to ever stay in the remodeled convent which is the municipal albergue. It was warm with great showers and I had a room to myself which was a GREAT treat.
Today we walked 10 km or so towards the mountains and are staying in a bar with albergue above in a tiny, stone village called Santa Catalina de Samozo. Tomorrow we start the real climb up towards the high peaks. All goes well.
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February 18,19, 2008
Rabanal del Camino and El Acebo
We are now in El Acebo, high in the mountains. Yesterday we walked to Rabanal del Camino where the woman that owns the only albergue open at this time of year recognized me.
Today we crossed very atmospheric mountains in dense fog with a slight rain. At times there was snow on the ground. I tossed my stone from our garden at home onto the immense pile at the foot of the famous Cruz der Fero or Cross of Iron. As usual I said my thanks for being able to walk and, as well, for our life together in France.
Polo and I stopped for a second breakfast on the way at a charming small albergue in Foncebadon which has recently been restored. Three years ago on Camino 2 it was a ruined stone house, now it is remade with, of all things, fittings from Ikea. Small world.
This is another charming mountain town with a welcome albergue connected to the only open bar-restaurant. There are 7 pilgrims here. Two non-communicative older Spanish women, one guy from Nantes, one guy from Brussels, another from Italy and Polo and myself. We had a very good lunch upon arrival at 4 pm, drenched from the weather and tired after crossing the mountain walking on many small stones.
Tomorrow it is on to Ponferrada. Another plus here is that the Internet is free if you sit at the bar. Hence I am typing while drinking a Coke.
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February 20,21,22, 2008
Ponferrada, Villafranca del Bizero, and Ruitelan
My legs are still holding up. Met a nice young Spanish couple who are hiking only from Leon to Santiago. Yesterday was a long, hot day in brilliant sunshine. We covered 27 km to Villafranca del Bizero. Saw some flowers beginning to bloom including almond trees and camellias. We stayed in the atmospheric private albergue which has tidied up a bit since last year. There are now hot showers from thermal heating on the roof. The basic tone of the place is better than before. Polo and I ate dinner at a restaurant I found last year called the Puerto del Pardon after the name for the church door. We had a truly delicious dinner for 10 euros each including wonderful wine.
During the middle ages pilgrims who arrived at the church door and were too ill to continue were given the same indulgences as those valid pilgrims who made it all the wall to Santiago. Today we have done another 17 km slowly climbing up the mountain valley towards O Cebreiro where we should be tomorrow. Tonight we are the only pilgrims in the Buddhist albergue in Ruitelan. I am looking forward to dinner cooked by the hospitalero and bed. Tomorrow will be long and difficult.
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February 23,24, 2008
O Cebreiro and Tricastela
Yesterday we climbed up about 15 km on the old road to O Cebreiro. The sun was shining but the wind was cold. As usual I found the arrival there overwhelming. The little church is kept spotless. I sat for a while alone and offered my thanks.
Polo and I plus a handful of noisy Spanish guys and 2 young German girls spent the night in the recently refurbished albergue. It was very comfortable and now looks great. At 3 euros for a bed with good heat and great new showers it was a true bargain. We ate a very good dinner in the local restaurant. Last night and today it rained.
We have crossed the last high peak and are now on our slow way down into Galicia. Tiny daffodils and early violets were blooming on the descending path. The topography has changed and now the fields are rolling, crossed by low stone walls. It is very beautiful as landscape.
Tonight Polo and I are staying in the same private albergue that I have used for the last 2 caminos in Tricastellla. We are the only pilgrims so far. We each have an individual room, the water is hot and the baths spotless. Plus there is free internet. A first class bargain for 7 euros each. Tomorrow it is on to Sarria.
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February 25, 2008
east of Sarria
We walked about 15 km today across rolling verdant countryside. Easy ups and downs but Polo's knees gave out.
This a wonderful, new private albergue at 10 euros per bed just east of Sarria. It is truly a find and was not opened when I last walked past. The name is Paloma y Lena. We are the only pilgrims. The owners who speak many languages are rightly proud of this place. Each dorm of 4 beds has its own bathroom. The common spaces are very handsome and all is well fitted out with Ikea furniture.
In their scrapbook of the construction there is even a page showing the opening of the multitude of Ikea boxes. The scrapbook itself is composed of individual photos printed together to form large page size prints. A large open porch screens the front of the one storey building and would provide welcome summer shade. At the moment I hope that the heat works during the night. Within a week we should be in Santiago if all goes ok.
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February 26,27,28, 2008
Ferreiros, Portomarin and Palas del Rei
After Sarria Polo and I walked on in fog and rain to Ferreiros where we stayed in a tiny provincial albergue with a Swiss guy who had worked in the US for 10 years. His name is Peter and he is now walking with us. Unfortunately his pack is so big that he carries extra stuff in two shopping bags. Needless to write that everyone jokes he will arrive in Santiago with very long arms.
We should all arrive in Santiago early Monday afternoon if all goes well. Two days ago we stayed in a very crowded renovated albegue at Portomarin. It was crowded because the rain was torrential and everyone came in out of the storm. We were about 30 including a German pilgrim walking for the 12th time at 74. There is more hope for me yet. In fact I think that he was rather peeved that I was a woman and catching up with him in age.
Met some nice Japanese guys who just finished their medical degrees and were doing the camino complete with Japanese guidebooks before they start their residency in a Tokyo hospital. They almost passed out when they heard my age. Last night Peter, Polo and I stayed in a very nice new albergue recently opened on the edge of sports ground entering Palas del Rei. There was also a good restaurant nearby for our pilgrim dinner.
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February 29, 2008
Melide
Today we have crossed the fields and entered into the final province of La Coruna. We are now in a rather tired albergue which needs refurbishing in Melide. It is only 51 km from here to Santiago, but we will need 3 days to cross easily the final hills.
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March 1,2, 2008
Arzua and Arca
We are now on the outskirts of Santiago at Arca. Tomorrow we shall be there! As usual I have mixed reactions.
Last night we spent in Arzua in a very nicely restored albergue remade from an old building.There were only 7 of us including a new woman from Finland and young woman from Cameroon with her Spanish boyfriend. Both she and he are doctors but they had nothing to fix their own blisters. Twas ever thus. Tonight everyone is sad that tomorrow is the end.
I plan to spend two days in Santiago and then hopefully walk on to Finesterra on the Atlantic coast.
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March 3,4, 2008
Santiago de Compostela
As the Americans said in 1917, Lafayette, we are here! Polo, Peter, Rita and I walked into Santiago yesterday morning. We were all tired and deeply moved. At the Pilgrim's office in the Archbishop's palace I received my 4th Certificate with great emotion.
Then we found rooms near the cathedral. I stayed in the same little single room next to the church for 27 euros. with the luxury of a PRIVATE BATH, it is a great find. In the night the bells toll the time. I showed everyone the good little pastry shop- restaurant where I always go. We had a delicious meal for about 11 euros each.
After a fast evening visit to the cathedral to give my thanks and hug the stature of Santiago I fell into bed exhausted.
This morning we all attended the noon Pilgrim mass. About 20 or so pilgrims were there. As usual the service was sung by a nun. The places from which we had begun our walks were read.
It is hard to imagine that the Camino is ending and soon we will go our separate ways. Whatever one believes, however one sees this world, it is impossible not to be touched and moved in this city and at this place. As the priests said this morning for centuries and centuries the pilgrims have been coming and shall continue to come.
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March 5,6,7, 2008
Negreira, Olveiroa and San Roque near Corcubion
After saying goodbye to Polo at the morning train I slowly walked alone through the suburbs and eventual countryside 23 km to Negreira. There were only 3 other pilgrims in the albergue. All were men - one Polish, one Spanish and one Irish. We were all aiming for Finisterra.
The weather the next day was glorious with a clear blue sky and fresh wind. However the camino was a long 33 km across hill and dale. We were all exhausted from the trek. At the Olveiroa albergue I went to bed at 7 pm even before the sun went down.
Next day in good sun under a bright blue sky I crossed the barren hills to Corcubion. Leaving the albergue in a dense fog the clouds eventually opened and from the hill tops I could glimpse the sea and in the far distance Finisterra. I can imagine the excitement of medieval pilgrims when they saw the sea for the first time. After 23 km I stopped at the pleasant hilltop albergue at San Roque near Corcubion. The Polish pilgrim and I were the only ones. The hospitalero made us dinner and we all went to sleep early.
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March 8, 2008
Finisterre
I walked across the beaches towards Finisterre, where the world was thought to end before Columbus. Crying as I walked at last I reached the westernmost lighthouse in Europe and the last marker.
Overcome with emotion I continued to the rocks behind the light and watched the horizon. The sea was the color of pewter and the clouds above dove gray. Only the faintest line separated the two. I sat for a long time, gave my thanks and then slowly walked backed to the albergue....
Ultreia, my camino was over.
I like to think of all pilgrims as parts of continuous ribbon stretching back into the middle ages. Some of us are visible, but most are not. However in our minds and hearts we all have been changed by the journey. Long may such impressions last!...
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...... Other bloggers noted in
Comments
Nikola wrote...
Meredith, my thoughts are with you every day. I'll check your blog as often as I can. Good luck and "Buen Camino". Your 2007 Camino-friend Niki January 16, 2008
Sally & Terry said...
Looking forward to reading this day by day. think you are very brave to do this trip - brave or nuts -,not sure which.Have fun! Sally January 16, 2008
Dorothy wrote...
Off you go, and godspeed! It sounds like you are off to a great start, and judging by what you taught me years ago (divide by 10 and multiply by 6), you have about 600 miles of adventure ahead of you! I will stay with you throughout the journey and will look forward to your postings. January 18, 2008
Luk said...
Your blog reads like a novel, but in this case we know the writer so that makes it even more special! January 28, 2008
Dex wrote ...
Hope you'll gain great insights and beautiful feelings along this trip and we hope to greet you soon in France again. January 31, 2008
Kiwi Nomad said...
Greetings from another Margaret! I am reading your account with great interest. I plan to start walking some of the Camino from Le Puy mid-Apr I hope the weather is kind to you as you continue, and I look forward to reading more.Thanks for blogging.... am very much enjoying reading about it all.I leave New Zealand in a little over a month to begin my first Camino in Le Puy. February 1, 2008
Sheri said...
We have been following your pilgrimage from Day 1. You are such an inspiration for us all. We will continue to follow your journey and stay in touch.Your blog is amazing! We think of you often and wish we were there with you. Keep on trekking February 2, 2008
Dorothy said...
Happy Valentine's Day. From reading of your trek, it seems as if you go no matter what the weather, and after suffering 20 hrs of torrential rain here on the East Coast of USA, I can admire your efforts, but know I would not fare well in your place. I see you have tucked away the words of Christopher Robin - "You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think" Rest well and off you go! February 14, 2008
Deb said...
Reading your blog takes me back to my camino path. November 7, 2008
JaneB said...
I'm walking my first Camino in September when I'll be 50. Thank you for your blog, I've enjoyed reading it very much and shall note many of your albergues in the hope of visiting them! March 6, 2008
Antje Ritter said...
Way to go Meredith! I read some of your posts and they were very enjoyable, so thank you for that. I hope you arrived home safely! Kind regards March 19, 2008
Liz wrote...
Thank you so much for your posts! I am thinking of walking next year for Lent, and was worried about the condition of the Camino, if there were places to stay in winter, other pilgrims, etc. You have greatly eased my fears! (This will be my 3rd since 2005.) I hope you are well.March 21, 2008
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November 21, 2008
Once I arrived at St Jean Pied de Port and climbed up to the rue de La Citadelle the magic of the Camino prevailed. Mme Jeannine as always was most kind. She cooked me a simple meal and turned up the heat in my tiny room. I was the only pilgrim.
Today I walked continually for 5 hours up the road to the famous monestery at Roncesvalles. Here pilgrims have been welcomed since the 11th century. Today at times there was sleet; patches of snow covered the fields. It was very cold! As I arrived exhausted on foot at Roncesvalles a tourist bus pulled up. Most of the fur clad passengers took my photo, a real pilgrim, through the bus windows! After eating a late Spanish lunch in one of the two inns I spent much of the afternoon visiting the splendid Romanesque church. It was wonderfully well heated! The small winter pilgrim albergue is also cozy. During the evening 4 Germans and 1 Norvegian arrived. We all shared introductions and hot drinks.
February 25, 2007
Quite a day! Hiked 24 k against the wind to Sahagun. Had a delicious lunch at Casa Barrunta in the village of San Nicolas where I have stopped before. Then the "fun" began. From the highway which parallels the Camino a horn honked several times. One Spanish pilgrim from last night rushed across the road. She explained that a Portugese guy wearing camouflage was walking and a criminal. For my safety she offered a ride. I said thanks but I would continue to walk. Within 10 minutes I heard someone behind on the gravel path. Bingo! It was a young guy wearing pink and grey camouflage! We look at each other. I say "Hola!"; he grunts and passes. Arriving at the municipal albergue I try to explain the situation to the hospitalero. She gives me a key to lock myself in. The place is huge and I am alone. Time passes. While in the loo I hear heavy footsteps mounting the stairs. Nervously I investigate. Two big cops and two pilgrims with bikes have arrived! "Senora, we brought you some protection" said the cops. We all laughed and shook hands... Now to sleep!
March 4, 2007
Did a nice walk alone of about 16 k over the mountains to El Acebo. The views from the top at 1504 meters were splendid. Stopped for tea at a new private albergue in the ruined village of Foncebadon. They have done a great job of rebuilding. Perhaps some year I'll stay there. At the Cruz de Ferro I threw a stone from home onto the immense pile. As pilgrims have done for centuries I too gave thanks and then wept. ... Now I am in another private albergue above a pleasant restaurant. Talked with a few Polish pilgrims. Tired, but rightly so.
